Mexican Journal: Eduardo Ruiz National Park, Uruapan Day 6

As we wind down this trip, our last visit before we leave Uruapan is the Eduardo Ruiz National Park. This natural park is built around the river Cupatitzio which leads to a couple of waterfalls. The entire park is surrounded by many manmade water features along with the naturally flowing water as well as rich plant life characteristic of this mountain region. The damage caused by the recent heavy rainfall is evident in the form of fallen trees, broken branches and tattered leaves. Coffea arabica (coffee) plants line the sides of pathways and are in fruit ripening stage. We also encounter a large specimen of strangler fig (Ficus sp.). A fruit stand within the park offers a couple of varieties of mangoes and the smaller variety I purchased is very tasty.

Mexico is ranked third in biological diversity owing to a diverse biogeographic history with varied climates. Mexico is home to approximately 30,000 plant species. The flowering plants account for about 2,500 genera of which 50-60% of the species are endemic to Mexico. Fauna-wise Mexico has 1,000 bird species and 449 mammalian species of which 142 are endemic. The vast numbers of insect species include 25,000 Lepidopterans (butterflies and moths). Many agricultural crops also have their origins in Mexico.

After lunch we head back to Morelia from where we return home to Denver the next day. As I look back at this entire trip, I feel very fortunate to have had this culturally rich experience. Many folks contributed to the success of this trip. Thanks to Sheridan Samano of Reefs to Rockies for putting together an incredible itinerary and coordinating all the logistics with the local ground operator. This trip would not have been successful without the hard work of our local guide Eduardo Gonzalez. His knowledge, patience, driving skills, professionalism and capability to stay calm when Mother Nature caused a hitch in our itinerary were remarkable. Lastly, the entire group contributed to the success of this trip. Not a single person complained when the itinerary had to be changed and instead of visiting two monarch butterfly sanctuaries as originally planned, we had to cut short to only one. By the end of this trip each of us had formed new friendships, which is bound to continue for a long time. Thanks, everyone!

Mexican Journal: Day 6 – Eduardo Ruiz National Park, Uruapan
Posted February 14, 2010 by Sarada Krishnan, Director of Horticulture

Mexican Journal: Tzintzuntzan Day 5

About 20 minutes from Patzcuaro is the Tzintzuntzan Archeological Site, which was built by the native peoples of the region, the Purépechas around 1200 AD. The name Tzintzuntzan means ‘place of the hummingbirds’. The ruins consist of five ceremonial temples with circular, terraced platforms. The Purépechas were a community of Native Americans who were the only ones who stood up to the Aztecs and were not defeated. Until the arrival of the Spanish in the 1500’s the Purépechas had not known military defeat. From here we visit the town of Tzintzuntzan, where we visit the local church and the Franciscan monastery. Ancient olive trees line the avenue to the church. Being carnival day, the church is decorated in fresh flowers.

We then drive to the city of Uruapan, which is about an hour’s drive from Patzcuaro. As we get close to Uruapan, on either sides of the street are Avocado (Persea americana) farms. Uruapan is the avocado capital of the world and one of the oldest cities in Mexico. We visit a local avocado farm, where an elaborate lunch has been arranged for us. The manager of the farm then gives us a lesson on the history and cultivation of avocado in this region. Avocado cultivation in this region started in the 1950’s. The volcanic soil of this region makes it very conducive for avocado cultivation. The farm cultivates three different varieties of avocados, one of which is the variety ‘Haas’, which has a skin that peels off like a banana. The avocados here were the best tasting avocados that I have ever had!

Mexican Journal: Day 5 – Tzintzuntzan & Uruapan

Posted February 12, 2010 by Sarada Krishnan, Director of Horticulture

Mexican Journal: Patzcuaro Day 4

After viewing the Monarch butterflies at Sierra Chincua, our next stop is the town of Patzcuaro. Located 53 km southwest of Morelia, Patzcuaro was an important ceremonial center of the native Purepechas people before the pre-Hispanic period. The town center consists of streets paved in cobblestones and is anchored by a magnificent church, bounded by buildings constructed with adobe and tile.

After breakfast, we head out to Lake Patzcuaro. We board a boat to the nearby island of Yunuen, where we are greeted by local children who hand out flowers to the ‘turistas’. We spend an hour touring the island taking in the local culture and trying to identify the local flora and fauna. The birders within the group had a great day identifying many colorful birds. Among the plants were a species of Oenothera, poppy (similar to Argemone) and a beautiful specimen of the poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima) in full bloom sans any leaves.

Our next stop is Jenitzio Island, with its monumental statue of José Maria Morelos, a leader of Mexican independence, at the top of the hill. The inclined streets are lined with handicraft stores and restaurants. We climb the steep hillside and at the top is the huge statue of Morelos made of stone bricks. Within the statue are paintings by Ramon Alba de la Canal and other great Mexican muralists that recreate the life of Morelos. Numerous steps take you to the spiral staircase at the top which is the arm of the statue from which is a narrow viewing window that gives a spectacular view of the lake, the nearby islands and the surrounding mountains.

Post-lunch we visit the town of Santa Clara which is known for its copper workmanship. We visit a copper artisan’s workshop where we are demonstrated the whole process of creating copperware. Of course, this leads to a shopping spree for copper artwork…more things to carry back home!

Mexican Journal: Day 4 – Patzcuaro
Posted February 11, 2010 by Sarada Krishnan, Director of Horticulture

Mexican Journal: Sierra Chincua Monarch Sanctuary Day 3

All of us had been waiting for this day…the highlight of the trip. The Sierra Chincua Monarch Sanctuary is one of four publicly accessible sanctuaries, two of which are in the state of Mexico (El Rosario & Sierra Chincua) and two in the state of Michoacán (Cerro Pelón & La Mesa). A 45-minute drive from Tlalpujahua takes us to the Reserve entrance. The butterfly site is another 45-60 minute hike from the entrance and some opt to go on horseback while others hike through the forests. The predominant tree species is the Oyamel fir (Abies religiosa), named so because of the branching structure that looks like a cross.

As we start toward the butterfly roosting site, along the way one gets a preview of what is to come. A few Monarch butterflies are fluttering around, nectaring on wildflowers, but as we get closer to the site, the numbers increase. But nothing prepares you for the magnificent sight of the final destination. Millions of butterflies are everywhere, hanging on trees, fluttering on the ground, swirling in the air, and nectaring on the nearby bushes. The sheer numbers, the beauty and the amazing way in which nature works is astounding and nowhere on the planet do we find a more amazing migration phenomenon.

The Monarch butterfly (Danaus plexippus) of North America is the only butterfly that migrates over 2,000 miles from Canada and United States each fall to the Transvolcanic Mountain sites in Central Mexico. This generation of butterflies lives for 6-8 months and in the spring when the weather gets warmer, they mate and migrate north to Southern United States where the milkweed plants (Asclepias spp.) on which the caterpillars feed are found. The migrating generation dies off and the new generation move further north, breeds further for about four generations, each generation of adults living only 4-6 weeks. The fall generation, 4-5 times removed from the original migrating generation, makes the arduous journey back to Mexico and the cycle repeats.

After spending a couple of hours at the butterfly site, we head back, each of us having been touched by the wonder and spirituality of this experience. While we will always cherish this experience, our thoughts and prayers today were also with the local people of nearby villages who have been devastated by the recent floods and mudslide. These local folks depend on this ecotourism for their livelihood, which provides them incentives for forest conservation.

Mexican Journal: Day 3 – Sierra Chincua Monarch Sanctuary
Posted February 10, 2010 by Sarada Krishnan, Director of Horticulture

Mexican Journal: Tlalpujahua Day 2

No matter how organized a trip you plan, no trip is complete without some form of reorganization or change in itinerary. The incessant rains, flooding and mudslide in Central Mexico had impacted access to the Monarch sanctuaries. Until Sunday night before we were to set out to the Sierra Chincua Monarch Sanctuary on Monday morning, we were unsure if we would even get an opportunity to see the Monarch butterflies. Our local guide, Eduardo, worked round the clock connecting with his people in these areas assessing the accessibility and safety of visiting these sites. Late on Sunday evening we got the green light that we could visit one of the two sites originally planned. The hotel where we were to stay was inaccessible and hence changes to accommodation and meals had to be made. The local operator working with Reefs to Rockies were amazing in making changes at such short notice.

So, on Day 2 instead of visiting the Sierra Chincua Monarch Sanctuary we detoured to Tlalpujahua on the outskirts of the sanctuary in the Tansvolcanic Mountains of Central Mexico. The 2.5 hour drive from Morelia brought us to the quaint town of Tlalpujahua with narrow streets paved in cobblestones. On either side, the colorful buildings, large plazas and cathedrals are reminiscent of days bygone.

Of horticultural interest were the strawberry farms (the state of Michoacán is the largest producer of strawberry in Mexico) and Agave (tequila) fields along the way. As we leave Morelia and enter the Transvolcanic Mountains, the habitat changes from semi-arid to coniferous forests.

Our first stop after lunch was the Mina Las Dos Estrellas (Mine Museum) where educational displays showcase the almost two century of mining history in this town, the oppression of the local people followed by the revolution for independence. Following the mine we visited a local glass artisan. Michoacán is known for its glass blowing workmanship, where many of the Christmas ornaments are handmade. Most of the villagers are glass artisans who work out of their home and the artists we visited showed us the whole amazing process of blowing, staining, painting and decorating Christmas ornaments. All of us ended up purchasing these beautiful ornaments and now we are all wondering how to bring them home safely.

Mexican Journal: Day 2 – Tlalpujahua
Posted February 10, 2010
Sarada Krishnan, Director of Horticulture